Cold Nights

Unfortunately, I lost November.  For that matter, the first two weeks of December sprinted by as well, leaving me with my mouth agape wondering where time has gone.  Can you misplace 6 weeks?  I may sound as if I haven't been fully present, as if I have been holed up in a cave or otherwise dubiously preoccupied--but that would be an overstatement.  In fact this month and a half has just been so jam-packed I have tended to let non essentials slide.

November and December actually looked like this:  My road warrior husband graciously allowed me to tag along with him on business trips to the Georgia coast.  I road-tripped to numerous Auburn football games including the arctic blast that was this year's Iron Bowl and the exhilaration of the SEC championship game.  I spent time in Atlanta with family for Thanksgiving.  I brought my mom back to Fairhope (by way of Jekyll Island) for a week spent sipping warm beverages and hoping Paul didn't notice we were slowly inching the thermostat higher and higher.

When last I checked it was the transitional season I love most, autumn (unless you ask me in March or April and then my favorite is definitely spring.)  But then I blinked and we were slap dab in the middle of what I would swear is winter.  I would never thrive in a really wintry climate.  When the mercury creeps down toward the freezing point, I pull out the gloves and scarves and my pillowy winter coat.  I connect the heated mattress pad and fire up a strategically placed space heater.  Paul survives in the steamy microclimate I create by stripping down to his scivvies and stepping outside periodically to breath.

But the good thing about cold weather is the opportunity it presents  to cook cold weather food.  Oh yes, just as surely as we put away our white shoes and patent leather after Labor Day and pull out our corduroy and woolens, there are some foods that can ONLY be enjoyed after the leaves have turned and the air has a decided chill.  Would you eat a steaming bowl of chili in late July?  Absolutely not!  Likewise, a hearty stick-to-your-ribs meal of braised short ribs is something I tend to gravitate toward as the days have gotten shorter and sweaters and turtle necks begin to make a regular appearance.

This recipe for braised short ribs is now one of my favorite ways to eat beef.  Although not nearly as simple to prepare as throwing a steak on the grill, a meal cooked in a big pot in a slow oven has its own charms.  The aroma drifting through your house if leaked beyond your walls may just bring a casual passerby inside to see if you would be willing to set another place at the table.  It is so versatile it can be served peasant style with a rustic baguette and a simple salad or it can be dressed up with some creamy polenta and roasted vegetables.  When all gussied up it becomes a great do-ahead meal for guests.  And again, when you open the door to invite folks inside, they will feel oh-so welcome and may well never leave.  Last February I put short ribs in the oven while we walked up the street for a Mardi Gras parade.  When we came home, the house smelled like heaven and dinner was ready.  You can't really beat that on a cold winter night!

Braised Short Ribs
6 or so bone-in short ribs, about 6 pounds
kosher salt
extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic
2 ribs celery
2 carrots
1 large onion
2 6-ounce cans tomato paste
1 bottle red wine (the kind you would drink)
1-2 cups water
1 bunch fresh thyme, tied with kitchen string
2 bay leaves


1.  Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

2.  Pull out your big dutch oven for this.  Coat the pan with olive oil and bring to high heat.  Season the ribs generously with salt and pepper and brown on all sides. Don't overcrowd the pan or you won't get a nice sear on each side.  You may want to work in batches.

3.  While the ribs are browning, cut the vegetables in chunks and smash the garlic.  Process together in a food processor until it forms a coarse paste.

4.  Remove the ribs from the pan and add more olive oil to the same pan.  Add the pureed vegetables.  Season generously with salt.  Allow the vegetables to brown until they are dark and crusty on the bottom, but not burned.  Continue to turn and allow to become crusty again several times.  This will take about 7-10 minutes.  Mix in the tomato paste and allow the mixture to brown again, about 5 minutes.  Add the wine and scrape the pan.  Lower the heat and reduce the mixture by about half.

5.  Return the short ribs to the pan and add water until the ribs are covered. Add the thyme bundle and the bay leaves.  Cover the pan and place in the preheated oven for about 3 hours.  Check periodically during the process and add more water, if needed.  Turn the ribs over halfway through the cooking time.

6.  Remove the lid during the last 20 minutes of cooking to let the ribs get nice and brown and to allow the sauce to reduce.  When done the meat should be quite tender but not falling off the bone. (Although much worse things could happen!)

7.  Serve with the braising liquid.  These could be served with mashed potatoes or pasta. A nice creamy polenta with a little cheese added is probably my favorite, especially when the polenta and the sauce get really chummy with each other!